Cleveland diner comes to life again as Somer's

by Debbi Snook / The Plain Dealer

Friday July 25, 2008, 12:23 PM

Scott Shaw / The Plain DealerSomer's serves up a sturdy chicken vegetable soup and tasty turkey platter.

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First things first: Somer's Diner is no Ruthie and Moe's. But, geez, it isn't trying to be. The new owners and menu that moved into the vintage 1940s spot at Prospect and 40th have a closer ancestral connection to the simple, hearty foods of the stainless steel past than the satiny comfort and style of Ruthie Helman's former kitchen.

We just have to get used to the idea.

It helps that Somer's owners, Brian Rooks and Sam Khouri (related to the original Somer's on W. 150th), are moving the menu back to traditional 1950s dishes but without the 1950s baggage.

Translated: The spoons are not greasy. In fact, I detected some love in the chicken vegetable soup ($3.49). Nobody overcooked the vegetables, for one thing. The broth was sturdy and there was almost more chicken than noodles. Make a note of that when winter muscles its icy shoulders into the Midtown Corridor.

Opt also for the Roast Turkey Platter ($8.49), two thick white-meat steaks still succulent under a classic thickened gravy and standard mashed potatoes. Our "Classic Burger" ($5), smaller than the menu's usual half-pounders, delivered good flavor in a leaner package. And the Raspberry Pecan salad special with grilled chicken ($9) was a worthy attempt at Ruthie-styled sparkle. Thumbs down, however, on the pale iceberg side salad with the roast turkey - all the personality of white bread.

I wouldn't order the Turkey Burger special again ($7). It was seasoned enough to morph from burger into sausage and leave behind the mild flavor of the meat. Breading on the onion rings ($2.49) was too cake-like to have much crunch, and although the fries were fresh-cut ($2, as a side), they were fried earlier and went limp by the time they got to us.

A good chocolate malt ($4) and walnut-brownie sundae made up for a bland carrot cake and an undercooked pie crust that went gooey in reheating.

I feared I might dislike Somer's because I miss Ruthie and Moe's stylish satisfactions. (She's cooking lunch now at Bistro on 185. See www.bistro185.com ) . But there's enough honorable rebirth going on in the old kitchen to rate a notice. The inside has been repainted, reupholstered and polished. Some of the old staff is back. And it's nice to see the lights on again in a fringe of downtown where it is always appreciated.

Scott Shaw / The Plain DealerThe old Ruthie and Moe's is now Somer's Diner and home for classic diner food.

TASTE BITES / Somer's Diner
Where: 4002 Prospect Avenue (at E. 40th), Cleveland
Contact: 216-361-1743
Hours: 6 a.m. to 3 p.m., Monday through Friday
Prices: Most breakfasts, $3.50 to $7; most lunches, $7-$9
Reservations: For parties of six or more.
Credit cards: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa.
Cleanliness: Good.
Kid-friendliness: Silver dollar pancakes and chicken fingers available.
Quality of service: Quick food and wit.
Noise level: Front is quiet, back is a scream.
Bar service: Only for private parties.
Accessibility: Full.
Grade: **
Ratings are based on a scale of zero to four stars. (One star means fair; 2 stars, good; 3 stars, very good; 4 stars, exceptional. Zero stars: not recommended.) Each rating should be measured against comparable restaurants; a casual ethnic spot is not graded against a fine dining establishment. Plain Dealer reviewers make at least two anonymous visits to each restaurant and do not accept complimentary meals. Read past Plain Dealer restaurant reviews online in Cleveland.com's Dining & Bar Guide at www.cleveland.com/dining