Going out on the Lake Erie islands: Your drink-and-hammock guide

by Joe Crea, Susan Glaser and Debbi Snook

Friday June 27, 2008, 12:00 AM

Peggy Turbett/The Plain DealerRadiating electric palm trees greet revelers at the Beer Barrel Saloon on the main drag at Put-in-Bay on South Bass Island.

Summer's here. Time to look up that old friend, the great Lake Erie. Whatta character, especially when you find him around Sandusky Bay and the islands. He's got such a drink-and-hammock mentality, stretched out and swinging across the sparkling blue horizon. And he's always game for a good meal and a party. We stopped up to see him recently, spotting him at his old haunts on Kelleys, South Bass and Middle Bass islands, as well as on the mainland. He's in fine shape. This guy just never grows old.

Take a photo tour of the Lake Erie islands

From the quiet shores of Kelleys Island, to the entertainment hub of Put-in-Bay, and close encounters of an animal kind on Catawba, the sights and sounds of the Lake Erie Islands are a feast for the senses. The sounds of the Jet Express ferry blends to the music of Corned Beef and Curry, playing a rendition of "Jamaica Farewell" live at The Boardwalk on Put-in-Bay.

PUT-IN-BAY

The Boardwalk
341 Bay View Ave., harborside.
419-285-3695

If Put-in-Bay is growing up, here's a sign. This favorite stretch of waterfront deck with picnic tables now has an air-conditioned, sit-down restaurant upstairs with a panoramic view. They brag about the lobster bisque but it's the well-fried, succulent perch and walleye that keep us coming back. Fuel up for a trip to Middle Bass, since the little ferry stops here, or sign on for some parasailing at the dock downstairs. Open daily with live music some weekends for listening and dancing.

Goat Soup and Whiskey
820 Catawba Ave., short walk from downtown.
419-285-2128

Scott Jackson and his crew are back again from the ski season in Colorado, offering a few twists on local, casual fare. Take a seat at this former winery, either inside windowed, air-conditioned rooms or on an outdoor patio. Originality shows here, in the home of the perch taco, a pleasant take on the southern California way, or order up a basket of walleye "fingers," strips of the fresh, Lake Erie fish expertly breaded and fried. There also are meatloaf dinners, soups from scratch and, downstairs, ice cream.

Axel & Harry's Waterfront Grille
227 Bay View, harborside.
419-285-2572

You might pay a little more for a "fancy" dinner here, but if an architecturally pleasing setting is important to you, this place has it. Two tiers of windows drink in all the light of the day, especially the long rays of late-day. Service is snappy and discreet. No wonder the dozen red roses looked just right reclining on a table -- this place has romance on its mind. Our steak and perch dinner was adequate, but we'd go again just for a little swoon. Outdoor seating as well.

DOWNTOWN PUT-IN-BAY

We're gonna rock down to -- Delaware Avenue. The crowds are a little older now but this street of live music and dancing is still in action, especially on a Saturday night. You take the ferry and walk across the park into an instant party. -- Debbi Snook

(Peggy Turbett/ The Plain Dealer)Nightlife on Delaware Avenue, the main party strip on Put-in-Bay, is lit by the electric palm trees of the Beer Barrel Saloon.

THE SHORE

Mon Ami Restaurant and Winery
3845 E. Wine Cellar Road (off Ohio 53), Port Clinton.
1-800-777-4266

Mon Ami, the historic winery on Catawba Island, offers a little something for all your amis on any given summer Saturday night: an all-you-can-eat seafood buffet; a wine tasting room and gift shop; and a hopping party room with live music and dancing. An adjacent outdoor patio is the perfect place to enjoy a cool drink on a warm evening. The winery's 30 varieties, now made in Sandusky, include a range of dries and sweets, along with champagne, port and ice wine. My husband and I sampled four contrasting whites (at $1 per), working our way from a dry and satisfying pinot grigio to the super-sweet Niagara. Our favorite: Walleye White, a tasty blend of Riesling and Vidal Blanc.

Nagoya Japanese Steakhouse
3875 E. Harbor Road, Port Clinton
419-734-6400

What? No perch on the menu? Hibachi-style Japanese food isn't exactly my idea of island fare, but with 18 table-side grills -- almost all of them busy on a recent Saturday night -- this place obviously fills a niche. Nagoya's sushi bar features chefs front and center preparing innumerable fishy creations, including something called a Catawba Roll (a California roll topped with salmon baked with aioli sauce). Out back, a patio overlooking West Harbor promotes quiet conversation (though live music on Sundays may increase the volume). Among the bar specialties is something called a Nagoyatini, featuring Grey Goose vodka, dry vermouth and a baby octopus garnish. And no, I didn't try it.

The Garden Restaurant
226 E. Perry St., Port Clinton.
419-732-2151.

Port Clinton's special-occasion restaurant has been serving tourists and locals alike from its downtown perch for decades (and yes, perch is on the menu). The restaurant, in a century house built on the site of the city's first lighthouse, takes an enlightening approach to food, as well. In addition to a wide variety of full-sized meals, the restaurant offers a selection of mini entrees, smaller portions that won't stuff you. My chicken orzooly ($11.95) was a surprisingly ethnic offering in middle Ohio, with homemade hummus and chicken alongside a parsley and orzo salad. The restaurant has a full bar and a surprisingly sophisticated children's menu.

Mel's Crow's Nest
2170 N. Buck Road.
419-734-1742

Get much closer to the water and you'll get wet. With East Harbor to the right, West Harbor to the left and a tiki bar out back, visitors to the Crow's Nest -- many of them boaters -- are living the island life on the mainland. Among the favored libations here: a Lake Erie Sunrise, featuring mango and raspberry puree mixed with Parrot Bay Rum, and, about 14 hours later, a Lake Erie Sunset, made with strawberry and banana flavors. Meals here include the usual suspects: ribs and perch and pasta and steaks. Successful fishermen can bring in their catch of the day and, for $9.99, have it prepared and served with a vegetable, salad and side. -- Susan Glaser

KELLEYS ISLAND

The Village Pump
103 Lakeshore Drive, Kelleys Island.
419-746-2281

"The Pump" is pretty much an institution: a spirit of fun plus casual fare and friendly service draw a big crowd. Hungry visitors go for the house specialty: fried Lake Erie perch. Some locals grouse about the prices -- $18.95 for the dinner, including a lot of fries (the sweet potato fries are excellent) and a tub of decent slaw -- but the fish is undeniably good, with sweet fillets fried light and crisp. The Clam Basket ($8.95) is a nice surprise; unlike the Howard Johnson version of old, these were tender and meaty. If you want a starter, go for the chunky lobster chowder ($7.95), which will whet two appetites but probably sate just one.

Kelleys Island Wine Co.
418 Woodford Road, Kelleys Island.
419-746-2678

Wine Co. may be the most secluded K.I. destination -- which means you're outside of the "downtown" hubbub. A big yard leaves room for the kids to run around. Inside, the place isn't much for splashy decor, and lots of hard surfaces and windows almost guarantee a din -- but our server, Christopher, made it friendly and warm, and he helped direct us to a couple of good buys. Among the specials were big, perfectly sauteed Tuscan grilled scallops on homemade angel hair pasta (a bit clumped, but fresh-tasting) and an 8-ounce ribeye steak with an absolutely delicious mushroom risotto. Each entree, normally $15, was weekend-priced at $10. But if you're only up for drinks, go for the Long Sweet Red Sangria ($4.50, also available by the pitcher) -- one of the tastiest I've tried.

West Bay Inn
1230 W. Lakeshore Drive, KI.
419-746-2597

The decor is all over the place, but the tone is friendly enough. We tried the St. Louis Ribs (under $15) which were good and meaty, accompanied by standard-issue fries. Or just grab a table outside, have drinks and await the local ritual of sunset over Erie.

Captain's Corner
101 W. Lakeshore Drive, KI.
419 746-2112

Mediterranean fare is the big draw, with emphasis on Greek dishes, but perch dinners and 10-ounce steak dinners are popular menu items. The bar rocks until the wee hours. -- Joe Crea

VIDEO: ANIMALS GOING WILD AT AFRICAN WILDLIFE SAFARI